Alfama is easy to treat as a postcard and easier to enjoy if you stop taking pictures after the first hour. The neighborhood is a maze of shade, tiled stairs, and sudden viewpoints. Stay inside it. Let the rest of Lisbon wait.
Where to sleep
A small guest house on a side street beats a design hotel on the avenue. You want a window that opens, earplugs for the weekend, and breakfast you can take to a step.
The best view is the one you sit with, not the one you collect.
