Buckingham Palace faces the Mall, at Victoria, Green Park, or St James’s Park Underground. Most of the year you see the facade, the guards, and the railings. The State Rooms open in late summer when the King is in Scotland, on a timed ticket. Changing the Guard is a separate clock: check the Household Division times, then stand on the Mall side, not crushed at the gates. The palace is a working building. Treat it that way.
How a house became the monarchy’s front
It began as Buckingham House, built in 1703 for the Duke of Buckingham. George III bought it in 1761 for Queen Charlotte. John Nash enlarged it for George IV into the palace people recognise, then ran over budget. Queen Victoria made it the official London residence in 1837. The east facade that faces the Mall — the balcony, the one in every news clip — was added in 1913 by Aston Webb, in Portland stone, because the old plaster front was failing in London air.
Seventy-five State Rooms, a garden large enough to hide a lake, and a staff that still runs a court. The Royal Collection hangs here. The balcony appearance after Trooping the Colour is the ritual the cameras come for. The building under that ritual is Nash, Victoria, and a 1913 makeover.
Why the railings stay busy
Because it is the one royal address foreigners can find without a map. Search volume follows weddings, funerals, and jubilees, then never quite drops. People come for the Guard, stay for the Park, and often never go inside. That is fine. The Mall at 10:00 on a Guard morning is the pageant. The State Rooms in August are the house: Sèvres, portraits, a throne you are not allowed to sit in.
It is popular because it is free to look at and central. Combine it with Westminster only if you like crowds with the same idea.
If you go
Do not make it the first thing off the Heathrow train. Walk the Mall from Admiralty Arch; that approach is the architecture. If the State Rooms are closed, St James’s Park and the Horse Guards are the rest of the same morning. Skip the paid ‘skip the queue’ Guard tours. The Guard is in the street.